We're back live from Santiago

Acknowledgements
Sorting through my things I am grateful for the composite nature of my possessions and how they've all helped, so here are a few late acknowledgements: my rucksack from Mary which has been a faithful servant; my shell Gortex top bought with tokens from Phil & Maria; my Gortex trousers from Bernadette, which worked particularly well with my running tights from Adrian in wet weather to keep me comfortable and dry; my sealskin socks from Paul, that were surprisingly waterproof, and with inner socks, good at preventing blisters; my backpack flag & my silk pillow-case from David and Leila, my little torch from Christine; my warm snood from Helen; my 1000 mile socks from Rachel, which came with good advice from Helen; my water bottle from Constanze; my money pouch from Nico; my kindle and my posh evening underwear from Veronica; my travel towel from Phil and Maria; my boots that I bought with Chris; and my travel universal plug (for sinks, not electrics) from Laura.

After breakfast I make a second quiet visit to the cathedral. This time I can see the original Romanesque west front that is behind the eighteenth century facade built for its protection. Inside the cathedral, it is only when one looks up at the ceiling that the connection is made with the great Camino starting points of Le Puy and Vezelay. All have the same flat arched ribs to the narrow nave's vault.

For a second time, but this time in an almost empty cathedral I hug St James. There is something beautifully just right about this gesture. It sums up something that the Camino has been about: we make the Camino, not to prove anything, still less to earn anything, but we make our Camino because we don't know what else to do with our love.

Most of the group will depart tomorrow, either walking or bussing to Finistere or moving on to the next phase of their travels. So I head for the station to buy my train ticket to Bilbao, a journey which will take most of the day. Then back in time for my second pilgrim mass. At this mass there are pilgrim groups from Italy and the US. Some group has paid the €300 for the botafumeiro to be swung, and so after communion it is lowered into position, the presiding priest invited to concelebrants to add incense, and then one of the cathedral assistants pushes it off, like a Dad might a child in a swing. The team on the ropes then starts pulling. I thought I knew what to expect, but it is the most amazing sight. It swings from transept to transept, with an audible woosh as it passes in front of the altar. The charcoals start to really burn inside, and the whole thing is swallowed up in a shaft of light in the south transept. It is simply a joyous wonderful thing.

And there, dear readers, as the botafumeiro fills the air with thick, perfumed smoke, I must leave you ... at least until my next carbon-neutral adventure. Many thanks for the prayers, messages and comments, and most of all, thanks for reading.