Most of the group had a very disturbed night due to some very heavy snorers in from N. Carolina. I immediately jumped ship and took my sleeping bag and pillow down to a near empty dormitory which was as silent as the grave. An improvised but satisfying breakfast and we leave the abandoned refugio with a "Happy Holidays" note to the hospitaleros.
It doesn't take long to get into Ponferrada, which has a slightly Disney Templar Castle. The walk beyond gets more and more lovely. The sun is out, the countryside is gently rolling, and we are back in wine country (Beiroz). These vines are not the usual trained vines on wood and wire trellising, but old knarled trunks seemingly randomly spaced, and now in fantastic autumnal yellows and reds.
Once again we are able to raid trees for figs.
This is wonderful country and although there are clouds about, the vineyards under these dramatic skies have us stopping and taking photographs at every fresh turn or summit in the path.
Eventually we come to Villafranca and hostel Piedro, which is terrific: again run with great generosity by a young couple. After the evening mass I cook a pasta for Nico, john and Kris (Angela having succumbed to another group's offer of schnitzel). I have also bought a bottle of the local Beiroz wine which is a big hit.
For once there are double rooms on offer, so Nico and I share this relative luxury and get a decent night's sleep.
I gather exhausted pilgrims could give up at the Puerta del Perdon in Villafranca del Bierzo? Not far now...
ReplyDeleteIs that St. Roch (/Rollox?!) with the knobbly knee?
DeleteThere's a St Rollox Street in Hebburn, I never knew who he was....
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