The Road Less Travelled: Mon & Tues

From the outskirts of Estella the monastery of Estracha comes into view. It is here that there is a wine fountain where one can fill one's water bottle with wine, gratis. Unfortunately we were too early in the day to see it in action, and the monastery was closed.

Shortly after this the camino divided, offering a 19km walk straight ahead to Los Arcos, or a 19km walk to the right. Our two Danish friends, the wonderful Henry and Be-be advised us to take the longer route which we would guess few pilgrims do. This took us to Monjardin, a beautiful church with a XII c processional silver crucifix.

We have now entered Navarra. At some point in the morning the earth turned red. The ploughed fields which were so dark are now reddish pink. To our left chalk cliffs, which the the morning sun picked out. We had first caught sight of them yesterday and at distance they had seemed like a celestial city.

The group has evolved somewhat. Matthias is still with us, but does his own thing more, and still unencumbered by luggage walks faster than any of us. We are joined by Jenna from Toronto and John from Chicago. Each has had a bad day, a day on which they have trailed behind and the rest of us have had to wait. Today, finally it was my turn. Blisters have struck: small toes, big toes and heals. I manage the last 6km by simply falling in with the heavy tread of John's step and imagining myself as Orwell's infantryman marching across this landscape.

Los Arcos is fairly dead save for a bustling square and a beautiful church and cloister where there was a 7:30 mass. Our hostel was basic, run by the Flemish friends, but it was cheap and we could cook. It also offered treatment by the physio of the local football club. So blisters were drained and treated with iodine. Carlos, the physio recommends we drink 3 liters of water a day!

28 km to Logrono
I woke dreaming that I was unable to communicate because I couldn't roll my Rs. My interlocutor, and it's not clear now who that was, demonstrated. Once awake I realized the man one across and down from me was snoring successive strings of perfectly rolled Rs. Snoring is number two on pilgrims' conversation topics after feet.

Today is a longer day. Many are stopping at Viana, but I an keen not to fall behind the crowd we have been walking with and to keep up with the Michelin Guide's schedule. So we make an early start. I breakfast on coffee from my travelling coffee filter, and dark chocolate.

We were well on the road before 8 and able to enjoy the beauty of the daybreak. Ploughed fields, their furrows picked out pink by the slanting rays of the sun. The first available coffee break was 8km down the road. After coffee here we were strung out partly because of my slowness. I was particularly struggling after having stopped. Finding myself alone I started a mantra, alternating the Jesus Prayer and "Thank you God, there is no pain." This self administered faith healing seemed to work (though some credit may be due to 600mg of Ibuprofen. Soon I was a walking painlessly and at a good speed. I managed a fairly lengthy conversation , somehow, in French, with the lady who is now in the bunk below me. Again it was a hot day, and becoming uncomfortably so as we approached Viana.

Now it was Jenna we were waiting for. John was sat beside Viana's fine church, but Malta (who also has bad blisters, but steamed way ahead) left and lunched alone having waited for an hour. We finally caught up with him in the hostel at Logrono.

Famed for its delectable tapas or pinctos, pilgrims hobble around from bar to bar to sample these.