Highs & Lows via Eden (Conques to Marcilhac-sur-Cele)

When I made the descent from the Massif Central, the temperature rose by almost 10 degrees, back into the mid 20s. Although the mornings are still cool, this promised to be another very hot day, and so it proved.

The dormitory rose as one at 6:45 and descended for breakfast. Goodbyes were exchanged, credentials stamped, and I was out wheeling my bike through Conques cobbled streets. Steeply down to an old, narrow bridge and then up on a road that hairpinned its way up the wooded slope giving periodic glimpses back to Conques that looked for all the world like a town from a child's story book.

JH had given a choice again, the climb could be avoided but i felt ready for it again, and was glad id taken it on. Because as well as the views back to Conques, once on the top there were incredible panoramas. Back East was the MC behind me and to north and south and dead ahead I could see line after line of distant mountains each one a paler shade of purple. The road took me along a ridge do that I had these fantastic views for some time. It's strange how vulnerable one feels, traveling at speed, buffeted by the wind with these vast expanses to each side, as if I might fall off into the far distance.

Eventually the road descended back down to the Lot at Decazeville. Then up and over to the next valley, the Cele, a tributary to the Lot. The second climb was unwelcome but a good steer from JH was the little church of st Felix, with its 11th c tympanum. This was one of the most delightful things I've seen so far (see images). It depicts Adam and Eve, both clutching fig leaves to themselves, and the serpent wound around the tree of life, giving the fruit to Eve.

The rest of the day was a long hot slog, but it did include the beautiful village of Espagnac with its ruined abbey. I should have stopped here but instead I pressed on to Marcilhac-sur-Cele. Here the Gite d'Eape that JH recommended in the abbey grounds was shut. There was one other. It wasn't the greatest, it offered no supper, there were no shops and for once I had no food, but I was lucky to fall in with Swiss family Florian and Marianne were being joined on the road by Florian's parents, Karl and Helen. They shared their meal and I shared the chocolate and coffee that I had. And we also shared good company.