Tuesday 18 September 2012

Turned away from the seven springs

These next three days are the days about which I have been most anxious and for which I am least prepared. The distance by road (which means by car) from Decize to Le Puy is 280km. I have given myself three days for this journey. With Aude and Francois I had booked a night in a convent in Paray-le-Monial, a hostel near St Etienne, and another convent in Le Puy. The basic route is to follow the Loire to its source.

Goodbyes were made in turn to Jacques as he went to the nanny, Aude as she went to work, and Francois who cycled with me into Decize, he on his way to work. The road beyond Decize was straight and flat, essentially following the Canal lateral de Loire.

I found myself at a Trappist Abbey, Sept Fons. I entered reception and found a kindly old monk dusting books and other abbey wares in the shop. I explained in my best French that I was an English priest on the Chemin de St Jacques. Could he stamp my pilgrims passport and could I see the Church. I was wrong, he wasn't kindly. He took my passport but said I couldn't come in like that. Apologising for my bad French I explained I was not sure that I had understood. "Like that, without trousers!" I had always prided myself on my smart and decent cycling apparel, but not decent enough. I had a stamp but I had not really made a visit.

From here (Diou) I found a Voie Verte to Digoin all along the canal and arrived in Digoin by 12:30. I started to revise my plan. Paray was just 20km more, but east. The Loire went due south. Tomorrow was going to be a mammoth day. I decided to turn south and make what headway I could and canceling the convent in Paray. I did manage to take in the Romanesque abbey of Anzy le Duc.
Once in Auvergne I found two green ways, the first along an old railway and the second along a canal, both at moments when I thought I had no choice but a busy lorry laden road. I made it to Roanne where I got a room in the budget ibis.

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